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Clutch Specifications

by Miller | January 21, 2009 | In Clutch No Comments

 

CLUTCH SPECIFICATIONS

(See Exploded Clutch View)

Type ………………………………………… Single plate, working dry
Driven plate with facing of ……………………. Ferodo
Facing O. D. …………………………………… 5.51″ (140 mm)
Clutch springs:  
Part No. ………………………..

Wire diameter …………………

Spring O. D. ……………………

Number of working coils ……..

Total number of coils …………

Free length ……………………

Seated length …………………

Corresponding load …………..

Minimum load ……………….

891312

.1102″ ( 2,8 mm)

.9134″ (23,2 mm)

6

71/2

1.6417″ (41,7 mm)

.9646″ (24,5 mm)

51.80 + 2.65 lbs (23,5 + 1,2 kg)

43 lbs (19,5 lbs)

Lever carrier ring springs:  
Part No. ………………………………………

Wire diameter …………………………………

Spring O. D. ………………………………….

Number of working coils …………………….

Length, taut spring under 1.1 + .11 lbs (0,5 + 0,05 kg) of load

Mounting length ………………………………

Corresponding load……………….. ……………

891319

.394″ (1 mm)

.3740″ (9,5 mm)

10 1/2

.7677″ (19,5 mm)

1.1811″ (30 mm)

4.85 + .44 lbs (2,2 + 0,2 kg)]

Pedal free travel …………………………………… 1 3/8 ” to 1 9/16″ (35 to 40 mm)
Driven plate facing max. permissible out-of-true …….. 0059″ to .0115″ (0,15 to 0,30 mm)
Clearance between clutch shaft and clutch hub splines:  
Longitudinally …………………………

Crosswise ………………………………

.0020″ to .0039″ (0,05 to 0,10 mm)

.0059 to .0118″ (0,15 to 0,30 mm)

CLUTCH SERVICING INSTRUCTIONS

Removal and Installation.installing the clutch on flywheel using pilot to center the driven plate
To remove clutch from car, first disconnect gearbox from engine and then take off the screws securing clutch to flywheel.

This also frees the driven plate.

To install clutch on flywheel, use as a guide flywheel locating dowels.

Prior to tightening down clutch mounting screws, align driven plate.

(pic. installing the clutch on flywheel using pilot to center the driven plate)

Pilot Bushing.

Whenever clutch unit is disassembled, it is es­sential to check that pilot bush on crankshaft for,

- clutch shaft rear support

- is not damaged or ex­cessively worn.

Clutch shaft tang on bush end must also be found in good condition.

Max. clearance between clutch shaft tang and bush must not be greater than .0059″ (0,15 mm), otherwise pilot bush must be replaced.

(pic. clutch assembly installed on engine)

Disassembly.

Unhook the withdrawal lever carrier ring springs and take out the ring.

Unscrew the withdrawal lever fixing nuts on bolts and remove the levers and washers; slacken gradually the three T-handles to relieve pressure of clutch springs.

Next, take off clutch cover, springs and lever mounting bolts.

(Pic.location dowels on flywheel for clutch centering)

Pressure Springs.

When servicing the clutch, always check springs for perfect efficiency. In case springs are exces­sively weak - i. e., the spring length of .9646 (24,5 mm), corresponding to the actual assembly value, is obtained with a load of less than 43 lbs (19,5 kg) - replace the springs.

(Pic. pressure spring specifications)

Withdrawal Lever Carrier Ring Retain­ing Springs.

The length of closed springs, under rated clutch load, is .7677′ (19,5 mm), while the length of ex­panded springs (under a load of 4.85 .44 lbs -2,2 ± 0,2 kg) should be 1.1811″ (30 mm). If an excessive weakening of springs is noticed, replace the springs.

(Pic. withdrawal lever carrier ring retaining spring specifications)

Withdrawal Levers.

Check the withdrawal levers and their bolts for excessive wear, and replace [More]

Maintenance to be done every 6,000 Miles (10,000km) or 6 months if sooner:

Do all the more frequent tasks and in addition:

  1. Engine oil change. Use a top quality multigrade oil suitable to temperature (see page) without any other additives. Drain the oil from the plug on the right of the sump when the car is hot (17 mm spann) into a pan that will have plenty of room, to prevent spillage. Allow the oil to drip for at least 10min. Clean the drain plug, and check its washer. Refit the drain plug, and refill the sump with 4 pints. check the level on the dipstick and add a little more if required. The oil should be changed at 3,000 miles if the car is used mostly for town work, particularly in winter, or in dusty conditions.
    If you have just bought an old car and the oil is very black flush out first with flushing oil. When draining this jack up the left of the car once most of the oil is out to make any dregs flow out better.
  2. Air Cleaner. - Replace the cartridge. When dusty conditions prevail, replace cartridge more often.
  3. Spark plugs. - fit clean plugs. With the gap set to .025 in (.6mm) plugs are Marelli CW 6N, Champion L87Y (or L7) or Bosch W225 T 1.  The porcelain plug insulators and the leads, must be kept clean to ensure easy starting.
  4. Ignition distributor. Undo the clips and remove the cap. Pull off the rotor arm. Check that the points are not contaminated with oil or dirt. Check their gap. This should be .019 to .012in  (.47 - .53mm) This may be almost impossible to measure other than [More]

The Clutch Slips

by Miller | December 18, 2008 | In Troubleshoot Clutch No Comments

CLUTCH TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS AND CORRECTIONS #4

When The Clutch Slips

POSSIBLE   CAUSES

REMEDIES

1) Insufficient clutch pedal return travel, due to the flexible cable   being stuck or the pedal return spring being too weak. 1) Locate   cause   of failure and replace spring or eliminate sticking of control cable.
2) Damaged throwout mechanism. 2) Overhaul throwout mechanism; also clutch, if required.
3) Clutch pressure springs weak or broken. 3) Overhaul clutch and replace springs.
4) Oil or grease on driven plate facings. 4) Remove cause of oil leakage and replace facings, if they cannot be reconditioned by rubbing with turpentine and metal brush.
5) Driven plate facings worn or burned. 5) Replace facings.

CLUTCH TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS AND CORRECTIONS #3

If you Experience Noises when Clutch Pedal is Released

POSSIBLE   CAUSES

REMEDIES

1) Misalignment of driven plate to flywheel causes slight movement of driven plate hub in respect of facings. This noise   is   particularly audible with engine idling or running at low speed. 1) Set level of driven plate. With driven plate locked on clutch shaft, set it under slight rotation and check for no runout in excess of .0118″ (0, 3 mm), using a scriber.
2) Insufficient pedal free play. 2) Set clutch pedal free play at 13/8 to 1 9/16 (35 to 40 mm)
3) Pedal   return spring   broken, weak or unhooked. 3) Replace the spring or hook it up carefully.
4) Forked lever return spring broken, weak or unhooked.  4) Replace the  spring  or hook it up and  check for correct position.


The Clutch Grabs

by Miller | December 17, 2008 | In Troubleshoot Clutch No Comments

 

CLUTCH TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS AND CORRECTIONS #2

If The Clutch Grabs

POSSIBLE   CAUSES

REMEDIES

1) Oil or grease on flywheel, pressure plate and driven plate facings. 1) Remove cause of leakage, clean flywheel and pressure plate thoroughly, replace driven plate facings.
2) Loose   driven   plate   facings   due   to   poor   rivet tightness. 2) If facings are not worn, replace defective rivets.  Otherwise, replace facings and clench rivets securely.
3) Driven plate hub does not slide freely on   clutch shaft. 3) Remove any foreign matter or dirt deposits from shaft splines. Should trouble still be present, replace damaged part.
4) Pressure plate deeply cracked   or broken. 4) Replace pressure plate.
5) Improper adjustment of withdrawal levers. 5) Adjust withdrawal levers as specified,   under <<Assembly and Adjustment of Clutch>>.
6) Misalignment. 6) Locate the defective point and, if possible, reset alignment or replace distorted parts.
7) Stiffened throwout mechanism. 7) Locate stiff point and replace parts, if necessary.
8) Driven plate facings worn out. 8) Install new facings and make sure that the driven plate, pressure plate and flywheel are not damaged.

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Maintenance to be done every 3,000 Miles (5,000km).

Do all the more frequent tasks and in addition:

  1. Check the car underneath. look at the rubber dirt excluders on the steering ball joints. Check the flexible hydraulic pipes for the brakes ( one at each front wheel, one just inside each rear suspension forward pivot), for rubbing or leaks.
  2. Check under the car for oil leaks (or new oil leaks if minor seepage already occurs).
  3. Lubricate the grease nippled on the king pins. Jack up the car to get the weight off the front suspension. Clean the nipples ( one each side ). Pump in grease till it extrudes clean at the ends of the king pin. Wipe off excess grease ( a little left around helps keep out wet ).
  4. Check the fan belt tension. It should be possible to press it down 1/2 inch ( 1cm ) using one finger and hard pressure. To tighten, undo the three nuts clamping the two parts of the dynamo pulley, and move a spacer from between the two halves to the outside. Do not over-tighten or the dynamo bearings will be overloaded. Excessive slackness wears the belt by slipping. New belts stretch, and require checking two or three times in their first few hundred miles.
  5. Gearbox and differential.Check oil level which must reach the bottom face of the plug fitted on the right side of gearbox. If necessary, add FIAT W 90 (SAE 90 EP) oil.
  6. Steering box.Check oil level which must reach the bottom face of the plug fitted on box left side. If necessary, add FIAT W 90
  7. Air cleaner.Clean cartridge accurately by shaking off the dust and blowing with a low-pressure air blast. Replace cartridge, if clogged.
    When dusty conditions prevail, clean and replace cartridge more often.
  8. Generator and fan drive belt.Check and, if necessary, adjust belt tension; correct sag under a pressure of 22 lbs (10 kg): about 3/8” (1 cm). (see page)
  9. Ignition distributor.Check breaker point gap which must be .0185” to .0209” (0,47 to 0,53 mm).
  10. Spark plugs.Clean spark plugs and check if electrode gap is .0 197” to .0236” (0,5 to 0,6 mm).
  11. Brake fluid reservoir.Check level and, if required, top up to the strainer. Use exclusively the special FIAT blue brake fluid (or equivalent non-mineral HI) fluid).
  12. Tires.To equalize tire wear, rotate tires in criss-cross fashion.
  13. Battery.Check terminals and clamps for tightness and cleanliness,

Maintenance to be done Monthly or every 1,500 Miles (2,500km) if sooner.

Do all the weekly/300 miles tasks and in addition:

  1. Check the battery. Top up electrolyte to just above the plate separators with distilled water. Remove any corrosion and smear battery posts and terminal fittings with Vaseline. If corrosion recurs take the terminals off and try to be more thorough.
  2. Stearing knuckles. Inject some FIAT Jota 1 grease in stearing knuckle lubricator facing the rear of the car.
  3. Windscreen washer fluid. Top off the windscreen washer reservoir with a mixture of water and detergent.

Note: When or if the engine is new, replace the running-in oil after the first 900-1,200 miles (1,500-2,000km) with regular grade oil. After 1,800-2,400 miles (3,000-4,000km), renew oil.

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